Let’s pronounce these varietals. Assyrtiko (A seer tee ko); Athiri (Ah thee ree); Xinomavro (Ksee no ma vro). The first two varietals are most associated with the arid Isle of Santorini, 180 miles southeast of Athens; Xinomavro is most often grown in rainy northern Greece, about 180 miles northeast of Athens, but just 17 miles or so from the coast. In our tasting, all but one were from northern Greece. Drink the whites young, the red Xinomavro (literally “acid black”) after aging up to 12-15 years. Let the red wine breathe--2 or 3 hours is best. These varietals are uniquely Greek, are clearly influenced by the sea, and taste of their locale. They are not Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, or Nebbiolo. They were a blend of rustic and sophistication, with the reds exhibiting a bit of dustiness. You can taste Greek civilization in every sip. These you can drink without roughing it--they are worldly civilized.
Evidence of grape wine making in Greece can be dated
back to at least 4,500 BCE. Dionysus’ cult reached its peak around 700 BCE, 400 years before Alexander the Great conquered most of the known world. With
all that history, Greek wine was, until after I came of age, a uniquelyacquired taste. I no longer slumber the
night away on the sandy beach, I prefer a nice bed, with maid service. So, whatever should I drink when I return toGreece? Are the newer Greek wines, once purely local but emerging on the world stage, still best in situ in a carafe? The Wine Council set out to answer this modern day question, tasting five Greek wines, with varietal names that defied easy pronunciation. Two millennia
after Retsina appeared, we found five Greek wines worth seeking out.
Thymiopoulous Vineyards Uranos Xinomavro 2008 ($27). This is a brawny wine, native to Macedonia, now northern Greece, expect stone fruit and spice aromas, and tastes of berries, sun dried tomatoes, and spices. This vineyard is in Naoussa, Greece, further inland and to the west of Drama. Complex and tannic, Xinomavro is said to make Greek’s finest red wines. The tangy acidity is most pronounced when first opened, let it breathe an hour and it mellows to an even keel. Flavors of strawberries, blackberries and spice, aromas of stone fruits and spice cake. Best pairing: Spiced fig cakes, Moussaka, chocolate.
Tired of everyday Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, or Nebbiolo? Try these for variety and surprise. These wines can be harder to find, but they are worth seeking out for an assertive change of pace. Any will pair with the salty fare of the sea, pastas, kafka or moussaka.